To use Cricut’s Print then Cut feature, you’ll need to calibrate your machine. Here’s a tutorial for how to calibrate both Cricut Maker and Cricut Explore so the Print then Cut feature works perfectly.
Cricut Print then Cut just got a big overhaul, and that means its time to recalibrate your Cricut Explore or Cricut Maker. Whether it’s your first time using Cricut Print then Cut or you just need to recalibrate it to use the new bigger sizes, this post will walk you through the instructions for this simple process.
If you’re unfamiliar, Cricut Print then Cut allows you to print a full-color image on your home laser or inkjet printer, and then have your Cricut cut around the edges of that printed image. You can make stickers, labels, photo artwork, sublimation prints, and more. You can learn more in my Ultimate Guide to Cricut Print then Cut.
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Which Cricut Machines Use Print then Cut
Print then Cut is only available on Cricut Explore (including the original Explore, Explore One, Explore Air, Explore Air 2, and Explore 3 machines) and Cricut Maker (Cricut Maker and Cricut Maker 3) machines. Cricut Joy and older machines do not support Print then Cut because they do not have the sensors needed to read where to cut.
How to Know When to Calibrate
There are two instances when you might need to do Print then Cut calibration.
- You are using Print then Cut for the first time and you’ve never calibrated Print then Cut before.
- Cricut makes an update to Print then Cut and you are forced to do a recalibration.
In the first instance, you’ll go to the hamburger menu in the upper left of the Cricut Design Space canvas and choose Calibration.
In the second instance, Cricut will “force” a recalibration and you may be prompted to calibrate in the middle of a project.
Print then Cut Calibration
Depending on the machine you are using, the Machine Calibration window may have more options here. The Maker, for example, also has calibration for the Knife Blade and Rotary Blade. But my Explore 3 just has the Print then Cut calibration option.
Click the Print then Cut button, and you’ll be prompted to choose your printer and print a calibration page on a sheet of paper.
Once you have the calibration page printed, put it in the top left corner of a Cricut cutting mat.
Click Continue in Cricut Design Space. Select your Cricut to connect to and then Cricut Design Space will prompt you to prepare your machine. It should have the fine point blade with nothing in the other tool clamp.
Then insert your mat with the calibration page on it into your Cricut. Once loaded, press the flashing Go button.
From there, your Cricut will turn on a light in its sensors and read the black marks on the page.
After that, it will make a cut around the square in the center of the page. WITHOUT unloading the page, see how close your Cricut got to cutting on top of the black line.
Mine is actually pretty close, but to demonstrate what a full calibration is I’m going to choose NO, the cut did not touch the black line all the way around. This will lead to a “basic” calibration. If your cut did touch the line all the way around, you can choose YES and it will skip the basic and do a “fine” calibration.
Your Cricut will do a series of cuts along the top and right edge of your paper.
WITHOUT unloading, Cricut Design Space will ask you to examine the cut lines and see which two are the closest vertically and horizontally. Mine were 11 on the top and K on the right. Yours might be different. Put those values into Cricut Design Space and click Continue.
That’s your “basic calibration.” Now we’ll do a “fine” calibration to get it even closer. You will be prompted to remove your mat and print another calibration sheet. You’ll follow the same steps to prepare your machine and place the calibration sheet in the top left corner of the mat. Insert your mat into the machine and press that flashing Go button one more time.
Your Cricut will read the black lines and do more test cuts in the same way that it did before. If your cut is now entirely in the black square, click YES and it will proceed with the “fine” calibration. Choose the two values that are closest to the center of the line—in this case it was 12 and L for me.
Finally, your Cricut will cut the larger rectangle and it should cut on top of the black line all the way around.
In Design Space, choose YES and the calibration is complete! If not, choose NO and it will run through the same process again.
Once you’ve got it to cut all the way around the center of your black line, you’re done!
Have questions about Cricut Print then Cut calibrations or need help troubleshooting? Let me know in the comments!
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Comments & Reviews
print on canvas says
thanks for sharing very helpful post.
Jami says
Hello! Found your page on troubleshooting the calibration for print and cut. I have tried to do this and I get a message that there are no printer options. I have a wireless printer that works with my HP computer. I am able to print to it from other things but it won’t show any printers under the calibration or even if I try to print and cut. No printer options come up to even move forward. Would you be willing to help me figure out why the printer isn’t showing up? Thank you for help
Liz, HLMS Reader Support says
That is so strange!!
You will want to check your printer settings and make sure that you have your Network Printer wireless settings set up if you’re trying to print wireless.
If you have the printer plugged in to your computer, make sure the cord is attached firmly and the printer is turned on.
Let me know if this works for you.
Happy Crafting!!
Liz, HLMS Reader Support
Darell Dickey says
Thanks for the assist! I’ve recalibrated my machine perfectly (so better than how it came “pre-calibrated”). And yet… my specific problem remains: My Explore Air 2 still won’t read those cut lines when I use a glossy vinyl. Other folks seem to be able to do it… I can’t. It gives up and leaves an error. Tells me to make sure the lines are all printed completely… which they are.
Liz, HLMS Reader Support says
Print Then Cut is not recommended for reflective materials such as epoxy papers, glitter paper/cardstock, or some embossed papers. These may reflect the light from the cut sensor, causing it to fail when scanning for the cut sensor marks. Again, you may have some success with Print Then Cut on these materials, but the results may vary from one attempt to the next. Always complete a Print Then Cut test first to be sure it will work with your material.
Liz, HLMS Reader Support
Donna says
It works if you “trick” your machine. I printed a copy of my project on regular paper and then cut out the “frame” of the sensor and taped it around the project. then my machine (an older Explore) easily scanned and then cut out my project which was on temporary tattoo paper which is glossy and would not scan on it’s own
Jerry says
i found with the glossy vinyl if you put masking tape over the lines, then go over the tape with a sharpie pen, the sensor is able to pick it up and works fine. Is an extra step but does the trick.
Liz, HLMS Reader Support says
You will want to make sure you have connected your machine via Bluetooth or have the USB cord connected and the machine turned ‘on’ in order for Design Space to detect your machine.
Here are the steps to set up your Bluetooth connection on Cricut’s support page:
http://help.cricut.com/help/setup-cricut-machine
Happy Crafting!
Liz, HLMS Reader Support
Tracey says
This is kind of off subject but not totally….my computer doesn’t recognize my Explore Air during the calibration. When I attempt to use the pull down menu to locate it it’s not there. Do you know what’s wrong?
mk says
My issue is when I use the Print and cut, I designed a text within a circle. When I “group” and then flatten, Cricut continues to change the “cut” circle to “print” and then on the layout to cut and print, there is a square not a circle. I have tried repeatedly but each time in the flatten mode it changes EVERYTHING to print. It worked previously, but through the years I notice ANY TIME Cricut updates it firmware there are all kinds of bugs. I am also having issues with Cricut adding images to my canvas I did not choose. I am frustrated as no one at Cricut has any answers – except the scripted answer to use a different browser ( that REALLY messes things up!)
Cori George says
Can you hide your circle (using the “eye” in the Layers Panel), flatten your image, and then place your circle again? OR, if your Print Then Cut has a flattened circle around it, it should cut around the edge of it. Does that make sense?
jacqui munoz says
Hello,
When I tried to calibrate my explore air 2 the sheet that prints looks different from the one in this post. Mine has a full square around the whole thing instead of just the 3 corner marks.
Cori George says
I believe that Cricut tried to fix their Print Then Cut calibration with this new printed sheet. Are you still having trouble with it?
Nicey says
Morning, when trying to calibrate it gives me error as in the wrong blade .what should I do
Cori George says
Hi Nicey — what blade do you have in your machine and what blade is saying you have?
Terra Frank says
Thank you so much for writing this post! I’ve been troubleshooting for two days, I’ve bought new ink cartridges, cleaned the printer heads, moved to every possible lighting situation in my home, adjusted settings ad nauseam, and etc all to no avail! I’m up against one of those crafting deadlines (you know the situation where the time the project took in your head ended up being way less than the project in actuality! Lol no? No idea what I mean? Just me then? Lol), and I was about in tears. Your fox did the trick! Thanks again for sharing.
Cori George says
I’m so glad you found it helpful!
Tammie says
I have a question I hope you can answer. I have a cricut air. I’m trying to print and cut tinker bell. When tinker bell prints she will only print in a funny pink color. O checked my printer settings and they are ok. When I print from word tinker bell prints in color it seems to be just from my cricut. Can you help?